Two-Wheel Vehicle Operation

The basic rules of the road contained in the California Vehicle Code apply to all two-wheel vehicles including, but not limited to, motorcycles, motor-driven cycles, mopeds, or motorized bicycles. Minibikes, tote-goats, trail bikes, and similar vehicles may fall within the definition of motorcycle, motor-driven cycle, or motorized bicycle. If any of these vehicles are operated on a highway, they must meet applicable equipment, registration, financial responsibility, licensing, and operational requirements, if appropriate.

It is illegal to ride a motor-driven cycle, moped, motorized bicycle, or electric bicycle on a freeway or expressway if signs are posted to prohibit operation. Additionally, it is illegal to ride a moped, motorized bicycle, or a Class 3 electric bicycle on a bicycle path or trail, equestrian (horse) trail, hiking trail, or recreational trail unless that path or trail is on or next to a road, or permission to use the trail or roadway is granted by local law.

Motorcycles

A motorcycle is a motor vehicle with a seat or saddle for the rider and is designed to travel on not more than three wheels.

Motor-Driven Cycles

A motor-driven cycle is a motorcycle with less than a 150 cc motor size.

Note You may not operate a motor-driven cycle on a freeway or expressway if signs are posted to prohibit motor-driven cycle operation.

Motorized Bicycles Or Moped

A motorized bicycle or moped is a two or three-wheeled device, capable of no more than 30 miles per hour (mph) on level ground, and equipped with:

Electric Bicycles

An electric bicycle is a bicycle equipped with fully operable pedals and an electric motor of less than 750 watts. Three classes of electric bicycles have been established:

The operator of a Class 3 electric bicycle:

All electric bicycle classes are exempt from the motor vehicle financial responsibility, DL, and license plate requirements (CVC §24016).

Motorized Scooter

A motorized scooter is defined as any two-wheeled “device” with:

Note A motorized scooter may be driven with any class DL. A motorized scooter may not be used to take a skills test.

A motorized scooter’s exhaust system must not be modified or altered.

New Laws 2016

Effective January 1, 2016

Electric Bicycle Classes

Three classes of electric bicycles have been created. All operators of a Class 3 (maximum speed of 28 miles per hour [mph]) electric bicycle must be 16 years old or older and are required to wear a bicycle helmet. There is no financial responsibility, driver license (DL), registration, or license plate requirement for these electric bicycles. More information on electric bicycles can be found in the California Vehicle Code (CVC) §§312.5, 12804.9, 21113, & 24016 and in this handbook.

Effective January 1, 2017

Increased Accident Reportability Threshold

The minimum damage threshold for collision reportability will increase from $750 to $1,000.  A driver of a motor vehicle involved in a collision with property damages greater than $1,000 must submit a Report of Traffic Accident Occurring in California (SR 1) to DMV. DMV is authorized to impose sanctions following an uninsured reportable collision (CVC §§1656.2, 1808, 1808.1, 12517.1, 13369, 13558, 16000, 16000.1, 16020.1, 16020.2, 16075, 16251, 16430, & 16434).

Disclaimer

This handbook is only a summary of laws and regulations. DMV, law enforcement, and courts follow the full and exact language of the law contained in the California Vehicle Code. You may buy a copy of the California Vehicle Code at any DMV field office or visit our website at www.dmv.ca.gov.

Where to Write

If you have any comments or suggestions regarding this publication, please send them to:

Department of Motor Vehicles
Customer Communications Section MS H165
PO Box 932345
Sacramento, CA 94232-3450

© Copyright, Department of Motor Vehicles 2016
All rights reserved.

This work is protected by U. S. Copyright Law. DMV owns the copyright of this work. Copyright law prohibits the following: (1) reproduction of the copyrighted work; (2) distribution of copies of the copyrighted work; (3) preparation of derivative works based upon the copyrighted work; (4) displaying the copyrighted work publicly; or (5) performing the copyrighted work publicly. All requests for permission to make copies of all or any part of this publication should be addressed to:

Department of Motor Vehicles
Legal Office MS C128
PO Box 932382
Sacramento, CA 94232-3820

DMV Information

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Some field offices may have extended hours and a few offer only driver license (DL) or vehicle registration services. To find a field office location and service options, go online or call the toll-free number listed below.

Go online at www.dmv.ca.gov for (to):
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Call 1-800-777-0133 for automated service 24 hours a day, 7 days a week to:
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Make sure to have your DL/ID card number, vehicle license plate number and/or vehicle identification number (VIN) available.

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Disclaimer

When using this handbook, please remember that it is only a summary of the laws and regulations. DMV, law enforcement, and courts follow the full and exact language of the law contained in the California Vehicle Code. You may buy a copy of the California Vehicle Code (PDF) at any DMV office or visit our website at www.dmv.ca.gov.

Glossary

Breakaway switch-a safety device that automatically activates the brakes of a towing vehicle if it separates from the trailer hitch.

Bus-any vehicle, including a trailer bus, designed, used, or maintained for carrying more than 15 persons, including the driver, for hire or for carrying more than 10 persons, including the driver, by any non-profit organization. (CVC §233)

Camper-structure designed to be mounted to a vehicle which provides facilities for human habitation or camping. (CVC § 243)

Camp trailer-vehicle under 16 feet in length designed to be used on a highway capable of human habitation for camping or recreational purposes. (CVC §242)

Curb weight-the weight of the vehicle with full fuel, water, and propane tanks.

CVC §-California Vehicle Code Section.

Dolly-a mobile platform that rolls on casters or wheels, used for moving loads.

Endorsement-permission granted by a licensing authority to applicants qualified by examination to drive specified vehicles.

Fifth-wheel-vehicle designed for recreational purposes to carry persons or property on its own structure and so constructed as to be drawn by a motor vehicle by means of a kingpin connecting device. (CVC §432)

GAWR-gross axle weight rating (for each axle)-the maximum weight that can be safely carried by each axle. Distribute the weight properly so you don’t exceed the GAWR ratings.

GCW-gross combination weight-the total weight of a powered unit plus trailer(s) plus the cargo.

GCWR-gross combination weight rating-the maximum GCW specified by the manufacturer for a specific combination of vehicles plus the load.

Gross weight-the weight of the vehicle plus its load.

GVWR-gross vehicle weight rating-the maximum weight that your RV can carry, including driver, passengers, and cargo.

Hazardous Material-any material that poses an unreasonable risk to health, safety, and property during transportation.

Housecar-motor vehicle originally designed, or permanently altered, and equipped for human habitation, or to which a camper has been permanently attached. (CVC §362)

Landing gear-equipment designed to support the weight of a vehicle and its load on the ground.

Motorhome-vehicle designed to provide temporary living quarters, built as an integral part of, or permanently attached to, a self-propelled motor vehicle chassis or van.

Tracking-also called offtracking. The rear wheels of a vehicle or trailer follow a different path than the front wheels.

Trailer bus-motor truck or truck tractor pulling a trailer or semitrailer designed, used, or maintained for the transportation of more than 10 persons, including the driver. (CVC §636)

Trailer coach-vehicle, other than a motor vehicle, designed for human habitation or human occupancy for industrial, professional, or commercial purposes, for carrying property on its own structure, and for being drawn by a motor vehicle. Includes “park” trailer. (CVC §635)

Payload-the discretionary weight, measured by subtracting the curb weight from the GVWR to determine the amount of cargo and passengers that you can safely carry. (Example: If your RV’s curb weight is 10,500 pounds, and its GVWR is 12,500 pounds, the payload limit is 2,000 pounds)

Unladen weight-weight of a vehicle equipped and ready for operation on the road including five gallons of fuel, required equipment and permanent attachments to the vehicle. Does not include any load. (CVC §660)

Towing Your Trailer Safely

Perform a safety inspection before each trip. Make sure that:

People who tow trailers share the same safety concerns as other RV drivers. However, a tow vehicle and a trailer form an articulated (hinged) vehicle which presents an additional set of concerns. The weight considerations described on pages 30 and 31 are very important to safe towing. The tow vehicle must be a proper match for the trailer. If the trailer is properly equipped, it can perform safely under a variety of driving conditions. The tow vehicle should also have enough power to climb mountain grades without excessive loss of speed. There are three basic types of trailers which mostly differ in the way they are hitched:

  1. Conventional travel trailers, including folding camping trailers.
  2. Fifth-wheel trailers.
  3. Motorcycle, tent, and cargo trailers.

Conventional Trailers

The ball and coupler hitch is used on a wide variety of tow vehicle and trailer combinations. This hitch consists simply of a ball attached to the rear of the tow vehicle and a coupler (socket) at the tip of a tongue or A-frame attached to the front of the trailer. This hitch is commonly used on recreational trailers.

A load-distributing hitch is used for heavier models such as utility trailers, boat trailers, and travel trailers. (See the Balance and Hitch Adjustment sections) These load-distributing hitches use special equipment to distribute the tongue load to all axles of the tow vehicle and trailer to help stabilize the tow vehicle. Here are some terms you should know when discussing hitch adjustment and in evaluating hitch performance:

Fifth-wheel Trailers

Not as much attention is given to balance, hitching procedures, and weight restrictions for fifth-wheel trailers because they are basically very stable. A disadvantage that a fifth-wheel has over conventional trailers is that much of the truck bed space is not available. The fifth- wheel hitch occupies the center of the truck bed and the hitch pin is in front of the center line of the tow vehicle’s rear axle. The hitch weight of fifth-wheel trailers is usually around 20 percent of the trailer weight. Hitches are rated for up to 15,000 pounds of gross trailer weight. Here are some terms used to describe typical fifth-wheel hitch components:

Motorcycle, Tent, and Cargo Trailers

There are several types of couplings between the towing vehicle and the trailer, which are:

The coupling you choose should be:

Motorcycle riders towing a trailer must remember to ride closer to the center of the road. You have the width of your trailer to worry about. Be careful of the “oil strip” in the center of the road at intersections. Also, watch for uneven road surfaces and road edges which can unbalance the trailer.

Transporting Passengers

Here are the rules for transporting people in RVs or recreation trailers:

Weighing a Trailer

You can find a public scale by looking under “Public Scales” in the yellow pages of your local telephone directory.

Trailers must be carefully weighed to make sure that loads are properly distributed, front to rear as well as left to right. There are two additional considerations with trailer weights:

  1. The tow vehicle pulling the trailer.
  2. The hitching system that connects the two.

Both the tow vehicle and the hitching system have weight capacities which affect the safe handling of the vehicle. As a new RV owner or driver you should be aware of this.

Balance

Before you tow a trailer, evaluate the trailer’s weight distribution. Hitch weights for travel trailers should typically be at least 10 percent of the trailer’s gross weight for acceptable handling. In some cases it can go to 15 percent or higher. Hitch weight for larger trailers is limited by the capacities of the tow vehicles and hitches. The strongest load- distributing hitch is rated for a maximum hitch weight of 1200 pounds. Most passenger car suspensions cannot handle that much weight and the trailer should be towed with a pickup truck or van. Improper weight distribution can cause the trailer to fishtail (sway back-and-forth across the lane).

Hitch Adjustment

If the hitch weight is less than 10 percent of the gross trailer weight, you can compensate for some of this by loading heavy supplies such as tools and canned goods as far forward as possible. If your trailer’s water tank is behind the axle(s), travel with as little water in the tank as possible to reduce weight in the rear. Trailers with water tanks located in front usually handle best when the tanks are full, because the water adds to the hitch weight.

Be sure that the spring bars of the load-distributing hitch are rated high enough to handle the hitch weight of your trailer, plus a safety margin of at least 10 percent. Check for adequate rear suspension of the tow vehicle. This means that the vehicle sits relatively level prior to hitching the trailer.

Load-distributing hitches are designed to distribute the hitch weight relatively evenly to all axles of the tow vehicle and trailer. The tow vehicle and trailer should be in a level position (altitude) in order for the hitch to do its job properly. Here is how to check:

  1. With the tow vehicle loaded for a trip, measure the distance between the vehicle and the ground at reference points, which you can establish, in front and rear. Keep the figures handy for later use.
  2. Hitch the trailer and adjust the tension on the spring bars so the tow vehicle remains at roughly the same attitude (i.e., if the rear drops an inch after hitching, the front should also drop an inch).
  3. Inspect the trailer to be sure it is level. If it is not level, the hitch ball height should be raised or lowered, as necessary. You may need spring bars rated for more weight if you cannot keep the tow vehicle from sagging in the rear.

Safety chains are required for travel trailers. Safety chains are not required for fifth-wheel trailers. The purpose of safety chains is to prevent the trailer from separating from the tow vehicle in event of a hitch failure, such as a hitch ball that has loosened. The chains should be crossed in an “X” fashion below the ball mount, with enough slack to allow unrestricted turning, but not enough to allow the coupler to hit the ground.

Breakaway switches are also required for any trailer having a gross weight of 1500 pounds or more and manufactured after December 31, 1955. They are designed to activate trailer brakes if the tow vehicle becomes separated from the trailer. One end of the breakaway switch is attached to an electrical switch on the trailer frame and the other end is looped around a stationary hitch component on the tow vehicle. If the two vehicles become separated, the cable pulls a pin inside the breakaway switch and applies full power from the trailer battery to the trailer brakes.

Even though hitch component failure is rare, the breakaway switch and the safety chains must be in good working order.

The hitch on the motorcycle trailer should be on the same plane as the rear axle on the motorcycle or slightly below. This will help prevent the trailer from pushing up on the rear end when braking. Also, the hitch should be as close to the rear tire as possible to provide a more solid support without interfering with the tire. Anchor the hitch so that two mounts are on each side. One of the two mounts on either side should resist a downward force and one of the two mounts on the other side should resist the rearward pull.

The tongue length on the trailer is generally twice the trailer wheel width but no more than six feet from the axle to the end of the tongue. Good design will allow for good sway control. If the tongue is too short, the trailer will sway. If too long, the trailer will be sluggish and cut corners when turning.

For motorcycle trailers, you should use a trailer designed for motorcycles because auto trailer tongue weights are too heavy. A trailer with a good aerodynamic design will enhance handling and performance. Maintaining a low center of gravity will improve handling as well.

Sway Control

The trailer should handle well if the weight and hitch adjustments are correct. However, the coupling between a tow vehicle and trailer should also prevent side-to-side motion for the best possible towing comfort and safety. If you detect sway in your trailer, stop to check if the load has shifted. Check for suspension problems and make sure the tires and wheels are secure and inflated properly. Be sure the trailer hitch is secure. A small reduction in tire air pressure or a slight increase in the tongue weight may help. A sway control device should be included when the hitch is installed. This device helps give the tow vehicle and trailer a “one-vehicle” feel. There are two basic types of sway control systems available:

Trailer Lights

Trailers in California are required to have reflectors, tail, brake, and license plate lights. Signal lights are also required if the tow vehicle’s lights are hidden. Trailers over 80 inches wide must have clearance lights. Most manufacturers comply with these requirements; however, it is up to you to be sure that all lights operate correctly.

Trailer Brakes

In California, brakes are required on any trailer coach or camp trailer having a gross weight of 1500 lbs. or more. Usually the braking capacity on tow vehicles is good; however, it may not be good enough to safely stop the several hundred to several thousand additional pounds that your trailer weighs. Most conventional and fifth-wheel trailers have electric brakes, activated by a controller in the tow vehicle. The controller automatically coordinates the tow vehicle and trailer braking so the two systems work together when the brake pedal is applied.

The controller can also be helpful in stabilizing a trailer that sways because of bad road conditions. Manually applying the trailer brakes by using the hand lever on the controller will stabilize a trailer that is likely to sway.

Folding camp trailers and boat trailers are usually fitted with surge brake systems which operate separately from the tow vehicle’s brakes.

Surge brakes are applied by a mechanism attached to the receiver/ball connection. As the tow vehicle slows, the forward motion of the trailer compresses the mechanism which in turn applies the trailer brakes.

Motorcycle trailers do not need brakes unless the weight exceeds 1500 pounds gross. If you install brakes on your motorcycle trailer, be sure the brakes do not brake harder than the motorcycle or the motorcycle may flip backwards over the trailer when the brakes are applied. The brakes must always be properly adjusted.

Trailer Backing

Backing a trailer can be frustrating for inexperienced owners. The most important thing to remember is that the trailer will go in the opposite direction of the tow vehicle. It is helpful to have another person help you back the trailer.

Here are two methods for backing trailers:

  1. Turn the vehicle’s wheels to the right to make the trailer go left, and vice versa.
  2. Put your hand at the bottom of the steering wheel. The trailer will go in the same direction your hand moves (moving your hand to the right will cause the trailer to go right, and vice versa).

Sharp steering wheel corrections will cause the trailer to jackknife and may cause damage to the rear of the tow vehicle or the front of the trailer.

Conclusion

This booklet gives you some important information about RV and trailer safety. A good understanding of RV and trailer safety and lots of driving practice will help you operate your vehicle with greater confidence and enjoyment.

Be safe and enjoy your travels.

Driving Your RV Safely

It’s fun traveling with your RV as you explore the different regions of the country. However, it can be dangerous if you are not familiar with the differences that your RV’s weight, size, and visibility demands of your driving. The transition from driving the family car to driving an RV is different, but not necessarily difficult. The points discussed below will help you to be a safe RV driver.

RV Heights

Most RVs are taller than passenger vehicles so you will need to learn quickly about the height clearance of roads, service station canopies, bridges, and to watch for low-hanging obstacles such as tree branches. Your owner’s manual, RV dealer, and RV manufacturer are the best sources for helping you determine the maximum road height for your RV. Once you know the maximum road height, post it somewhere on the RV or tow vehicle so it will always be handy as a reference.

RV Lengths

Many highways either restrict or recommend non-use for vehicles over a certain length. California Vehicle Code §35400 restricts the operation of housecars over 40 feet to only specified highways and within one mile on either side of those highways for access to fuel, food, or lodging. These highways include, but are not always limited to, the National System of Interstate and Defense Highways and all state routes. For exceptions to this list, visit the Caltrans website at: www.dot.ca.gov.

Maneuvering the RV

The additional weight, height, width, and length of an RV makes it less maneuverable than a passenger vehicle. A safe maneuver in your family car may be dangerous in an RV. Since it is heavier, an RV may not stop as quickly so you will need more following distance. Defensive driving in an RV requires making changes slowly, braking gradually, and being familiar with its handling characteristics.

Braking

Most RVs are heavier than passenger vehicles and require greater braking distances. You must allow more time for the vehicle to slow or stop. If you are towing an RV, you must also worry about brake fade. Brake fade can happen when the brakes are overheated from prolonged use or the brakes are out of alignment. To help avoid brake fade on downgrades, use the lower gears to allow the engine to help slow the vehicle.

Speed

RVs are naturally slower than passenger vehicles. It takes longer to climb a hill in an RV because it’s heavier than a passenger vehicle. Keep this in mind, practice good manners, and observe the law by using turnouts when there are five or more vehicles behind you that wish to pass. The drivers behind you will be able to see ahead more easily if you try not to drive next to the center of the lane. If you are traveling with other RVs in a caravan, be sure to leave enough space between your RV and the RV in front of you for other drivers to enter when they want to pass.

Safety Belts

Always wear your safety belt when driving. Even though many RVs accommodate passengers in places where safety belts are not required by federal law (i.e., dining table), if the area has a safety belt-wear it. Riding in a place which is not equipped with a safety belt increases the danger of injury in case of a collision.

Weather Conditions

Bad weather conditions such as wind, fog, snow, and ice are hazards to all drivers. An RV driver has an advantage over drivers of other passenger vehicles because of the added weight over the drive wheels. This gives the vehicle better traction in bad weather. However, its added weight can also make it more difficult to move if it gets stuck. Plan your trips to avoid bad weather conditions as much as possible.

Remember, if hazardous weather conditions require the use of windshield wipers you must also turn on your headlights.

RVs Towing Cars or Other Vehicles

Towing small cars behind an RV has become a popular way of providing transportation after the RV is parked at a campsite. Towing a car differs from towing travel trailers or fifth-wheel trailers. Very little hitch weight is involved when the car is towed on all four wheels and only minimal hitch weight is involved when the car is towed on a dolly.

If you wish to tow a vehicle behind your RV, you need to consider whether or not your motor home can handle the extra weight under all conditions (i.e., climbing steep hills or mountains). Your vehicle must have sufficient power to climb grades without holding up traffic and its braking power must be sufficient to stop the combined weight of the RV plus the car and/or tow dolly effectively. RV chassis manufacturers provide limits on the gross combined weight of the RV plus car.

If you are towing a car, be sure the hitch attachment on the RV is secure. Hitch weight ratings are usually stamped on the hitch assemblies. The tow bar attachment is also a concern because of the integrated frame construction used in most small cars. If you use a tow bar, safety chains are required, but a breakaway switch is not. Fully operational tail, brake, and turn signal lights are required on the towed car.

It’s easy to forget you are towing a car when driving a large RV because you can’t see it. So remember to allow extra space when entering a freeway or passing another vehicle so you won’t cut off the other driver. Your vehicle combination cannot exceed 65 feet. However, cities and counties may prohibit vehicle combination lengths over 60 feet, when posted (CVC §35401).

One other thing to consider-you may only tow one vehicle with your noncommercial Class A, B, or C driver license. You may not tow two vehicles or trailers with a noncommercial Class A, B, or C driver license. EXAMPLE: You cannot tow a boat trailer and a car behind your vehicle.

Handling Emergencies- Information for All Drivers

All drivers are placed in emergency situations at some point. Although you can’t avoid emergency situations, you can mentally prepare for them. Think about emergency situations and decide how you would handle them so you will be better prepared to react properly if they really happen.

Collisions

Good defensive driving techniques will help you from becoming involved in collisions. One important technique is to keep a three- second or more following distance from the vehicle ahead of you. Keeping your distance gives you time to react and avoid a collision. Refer to the California Driver Handbook for information on three- second following distances.

Plan Your Escape

To successfully avoid a collision, you need to plan your escape. As a defensive driver you already prepared for this by maintaining a space cushion around your RV, which you will need to avoid an emergency. Glance at the shoulder of the road. Does it look firm and wide enough to support your vehicle? Is your vehicle well maintained so that you don’t have to worry about unexpected mechanical problems? Remember to make gentle steering movements.

Signal Your Intentions

Always use your vehicle’s mechanical signals when you move through or out of traffic. In an emergency, and once you are on the side of the road, use emergency flashers, flares, or some other emergency signaling device to warn oncoming traffic. Emergency signaling devices are even more important if you are unable to pull completely away from the flow of traffic, on the top of a hill, or around a curve in the road where other drivers cannot see you.

If you have a flat tire, make sure the person who changes the tire is not in the way of oncoming traffic. If the vehicle cannot be parked far enough away from traffic flow, use safety precautions such as emergency signaling devices and a person to flag traffic away from the scene. Be sure the jack is adequate to lift the vehicle and the wheels are blocked.

Fires

All recreational vehicles must carry at least one dry chemical or carbon dioxide (CO2) type extinguisher in working condition with a rating of at least 4-B. The most effective fire extinguishers use halon gas and are good investments for RV safety. It can keep a small, manageable fire from becoming a major, uncontrollable fire.

The best fire protection includes:

Make sure the fire extinguisher is suitable for the type of fire and is large enough to put out the fire. If you have a fuel or electrical fire, first try to shut off the source of the fuel by turning off the fuel valves and unplugging the electrical circuits. If you aren’t sure what type of fire it is, shut off everything. All family members should be able to put out a small gas or oil fire with the extinguisher.

The most common extinguisher is a 2 1/2 lb. ABC which is suitable for all types of fires, including fuel fires and electrical fires. There is no substitute for the correct type of fire extinguisher. The letter designates the type of fire suitability:

Be sure to recharge the extinguisher after it is used, even if it is not totally empty. Conventional CO2 extinguishers should be recharged periodically even if they are not used. The dry powder used in CO2 extinguishers tends to compact with road vibration. Before using the CO2 extinguisher, rap it sharply on the side and bottom to shake the powder loose.

Put the extinguishers where fires are most likely to occur and where they can be easily reached. For example, with a tow vehicle and travel trailer, you should have an extinguisher in the tow vehicle and another near the kitchen in the trailer.

Fuels

RVs normally carry two types of fuels: gasoline and propane; although some RVs use diesel and propane. Very few do not have propane on board.

Propane is no more dangerous to use than gasoline or diesel. All three fuels, if mishandled, can cause disaster. Propane vapor is just as explosive as gasoline or diesel vapor. When propane leaks from one of the lines inside an RV, the volume can build up to the point where it may explode. Leaking gasoline can also cause an explosion if its vapor collects in a closed area. Of course, a source of ignition must be present to set it off. In any case, both fuels deserve healthy respect. Knowledge and preventive maintenance are the keys to safety.

Make frequent inspections of your RV’s fuel systems. Look closely to see if lines are rubbing against sharp edges of the vehicle. Check to see: Is the neoprene (synthetic rubberlike plastic) gasoline line cracking because it is old? Is the carburetor starting to leak? Do the joints in the propane lines have a leak? Wash the propane lines with soapy water, and if bubbles appear there is a leak.

If your vehicle is equipped with a liquefied petroleum gas (LPG), compressed natural gas (CNG) or liquified natural gas (LNG) tank in a hard-to-see area of the vehicle, it must be identified by the letters “LPG,” “CNG,” or “LNG.” The letters must be one inch tall or larger and placed in a visible spot as close to the tank as possible.

Loading and Overloading Information for RVs and Trailers

It is almost impossible to overload a passenger vehicle because space tends to limit the amount of weight you can carry. You can’t take your child’s six friends to the baseball game if you are taking all of the team’s Little League equipment in the back seat. Space, not weight, is the main concern.

Now that you have an RV, you must remember an RV is heavier than a passenger vehicle and is capable of being overloaded. Also, the storage capacity in most RVs offers any number of possibilities for improper weight distribution. The way you load your supplies can have a major impact on how the vehicle handles, as well as on the durability of your tires. The results of overloading can be serious. Passenger safety is at stake. Problems such as tire failure and/or poor handling can leave the driver with inadequate ability to control the vehicle during emergency maneuvers.

Load Ratings for RVs

RV manufacturers provide load ratings on certification tags at various points inside or outside the RV. The certification tags are usually placed as follows (if you can’t locate the sticker, check with your dealer):

To weigh your RV, you will need to use a level, commercial platform scale to obtain the following five weights (refer to the yellow pages of your local telephone directory under “Scales-Public”):

  1. The entire vehicle with all wheels on the scale.
  2. The front axle with only the front wheels parked on the scale.
  3. The rear axle with only the rear wheels parked on the scale.
  4. The left side with only the left front and back wheels on the scale.
  5. The right side with only the right front and back wheels on the scale.

Springs, wheels, axles, and tires are all affected by overloading. Tire failure can be disastrous in an RV, especially at high speeds. Be very careful and pay close attention to the inflation pressures stamped on the sides of the tires.

Distribute weight as equally as possible on the left and right sides of your RV. The need for this will be clear when turning and maneuvering your RV in traffic.

Pickups with campers present another type of weight distribution problem because the camper is added to the truck as cargo, rather than being built on its own chassis or being towed. GVWR and GAWR listings still apply. Manufacturers are also required to tell you the weight distribution limits, or “center of gravity zones” which are listed in truck and camper owner’s manuals. The main focus in balancing a camper is to be sure the weight of the camper does not make the vehicle fishtail or top heavy and cause stability problems.

Loading a Motorcycle Trailer

The biggest problem with towing a motorcycle trailer is loading it so there is equal weight on each wheel. The less unused space in your trailer, the less load shifting problems you will have. If you carry an ice chest inside the trailer, be sure to pack it over the axle. If you carry the ice chest on the trailer tongue, load it at the same time you load the trailer to obtain the proper tongue weight. Remember to readjust the weight as you use the contents of the ice chest to maintain proper tongue weight. Loading your motorcycle saddle bags will also assist with traction and handling when towing a motorcycle trailer.

Pack frequently needed items last so they will be at the top of the trailer. Never overload the trailer beyond the GVWR.

Defensive Driving Techniques for All Drivers

Defensive driving requires all drivers to think ahead. This is even more important for RV drivers than for drivers of passenger vehicles. An RV driver must be continually aware of the traffic around the vehicle because directional changes are slower and the RV needs more space in traffic. Try to avoid roads during rush hour traffic. If you are driving in unfamiliar areas, ask someone (possibly one of your passengers) to help you with directions and always have a map of the area. If you are driving by yourself, always pull off the road at a safe place and stop the vehicle before looking at a map.

Be Prepared

Listen to the local radio stations where you are traveling. Be aware of traffic slow downs, collisions, or road construction, etc. If you are prepared and have a map, you will be able to take alternative routes.

Starting and Shifting

Always try to start and shift (for manual transmissions) smoothly to prevent wear and tear on the hitch and transmission systems.

Turning Patterns

Longer wheel bases make it necessary to change your turning patterns. You must turn wider at intersections or the rear wheel may roll over the curb. Go further into the intersection before starting the turn and adjust your lane position to increase the turning radius.

Curves in the highway can also be tricky. Stay to the center of the lane for right turns so the rear wheels will not go off the pavement. For a left turn or curve, stay to the right of the lane to prevent the back of the trailer from tracking into the oncoming lane of traffic.

RVs and some trailers have a high center of gravity, so turning corners and taking curves must be done at slower speeds to prevent swaying. Slow down before you enter the curve.

If you transport livestock, be careful because they can move around in a trailer. This shifts the center of gravity and makes a rollover more likely. With less than a full load of livestock, use barriers to keep the livestock together. Even then, be very careful in curves. Livestock will also lean in the curve and this could cause a rollover if you are driving too fast.

Winds

If you are driving in areas with strong winds, take special care. Crosswinds are the greatest threat because they can push a large motor home or a vehicle and trailer combination into another lane if you are not prepared. This is especially true for travel trailers. In most cases, going slower is the best defense against strong winds. If you are towing a trailer, you should gradually apply the trailer brakes to help control a swaying trailer. Headwinds require a heavier throttle to maintain usual speeds. You may be able to control an RV in strong winds, but the safest thing to do would be to pull over and wait it out. If you anticipate driving in very windy areas, call and obtain local weather and road conditions. Good sources of weather information are local airports, highway patrol, state police, or ranger stations. Often, you will see signs along the highway which show radio frequencies for weather information.

Snow

Always carry drive wheel and trailer wheel chains when you travel in snow country. Know how to put them on. Chains are needed for both the tow vehicle and for one axle of the trailer. If you have a motor home with dual-rear wheels, you will need chains for one tire on each side.

Ice

If you are towing a trailer on icy roads, go slowly, especially downhill. Use the lower gears. You may be able to gain additional traction for the tow vehicle by moderately releasing the tension of the load equalizing hitch. Always readjust the hitch after the icy road condition has passed because vehicle stability may be affected during normal driving conditions.

Mountain Roads

Will your vehicle make it up the grade? Almost all grades, regardless of severity, will cause you to slow down. Any grade steeper than six percent is considered extreme and requires special attention. The steeper the grade or the longer the grade and the heavier the load, the more you will have to use lower gears to climb hills or mountains.

When going down steep hills, gravity will tend to speed you up. You must select an appropriate safe speed, use a low gear, and apply enough braking power to hold you back without letting the brakes get too hot. Use the braking effect of the engine (lower gears) as the principal way of controlling your speed to save your brakes so you will be able to slow or stop as required by road and traffic conditions. Slow the vehicle and shift the transmission to a low gear before starting down a grade.

REMEMBER: The use of brakes on a long and/or steep downgrade is only a supplement to the braking effect of the engine. Once the vehicle is in the proper low gear, the following is a proper braking technique:

  1. Apply the brakes just hard enough to feel a definite slowdown.
  2. When your speed has been reduced to approximately five mph below your “safe” speed, release the brakes. This brake application should last for about three seconds.
  3. When your speed has increased to your “safe” speed, repeat steps 1 and 2.

Do not drive in the fast lanes on a multiple-lane grade. Stay in the far right lane while climbing a steep grade if your RV or trailer will not maintain the legal speed limit. It would be better to drop to a lower gear and slow down rather than pass slow trucks and tie up the faster lanes because you don’t have enough power.

Narrow Roads

Some two-lane roads have special “turn-out” areas. You may pull into these areas and allow vehicles behind you to pass. Some two-lane roads have a passing lane. Stay in the right lane so faster vehicles may pass you in the passing lane. When you drive a slow-moving vehicle on a two-lane highway or road where passing is unsafe, and five or more vehicles are following you, pull to the side of the road wherever you can safely do so to let the vehicles pass.

Try to stay to the right of the lane so the vehicles behind you can see ahead. Remember to pull off the road when it is safe and allow the faster vehicles to pass.

Escape Ramps

Escape ramps have been built on many steep mountain grades, and are used to stop runaway vehicles safely without injuring drivers and passengers. Escape ramps use a long bed of loose, soft material (pea gravel or sand) to slow a runaway vehicle, sometimes in combination with an upgrade.

Know where escape ramps are located on your route. Signs show drivers where ramps are located.

Road Signs

Pay attention to road signs that warn against travel by vehicles towing trailers. If you missed the sign that warned of a “Dead End” ahead, would you be able to turn your vehicle around? What was the weight limit for the bridge ahead? Did you notice the height clearance for the overpass? You may not notice these types of signs because you’ve never had to worry about them in your passenger vehicle. You will have to worry about them in your RV.

Freeway Driving

You will have slower acceleration when you enter a freeway, so you will need more space. Remember that freeway traffic has the right-of- way, so you must look for gaps large enough to accommodate your vehicle(s). You also need more space when passing other vehicles. Judging how much space you will need takes practice. If you don’t allow enough space and time to complete a pass, you may need to swerve quickly into another lane. This could result in a skidding, oversteering, swaying, or fishtailing trailer.

Following distances must also be increased because you cannot slow down and stop your vehicle quickly. When you want to exit a freeway, slow down sooner than you would for a smaller vehicle. Be aware that many off ramps have curves which continually tighten. You will need to stay to the outside of the curve so the rear wheels will not rub the curb or drop off the pavement.

By law (CVC §22406), vehicles towing trailers must stay in the right-hand traffic lane or as close as possible to the right edge or curb. If you drive on a divided highway with four or more traffic lanes in the same direction or where a specific lane or lanes have not been designated, you can drive in the lane just to the left of the right-hand traffic lane. When overtaking or passing another vehicle going in the same direction, you must use either: (1) the designated lane, (2) the lane just to the left of the right-hand lane, or (3) the right-hand traffic lane when use of that lane is permitted.

Dirt or unpaved Roads

Many times the only road into the campground is a dirt or gravel road. Consult a campground directory to see if a certain road is suitable for your vehicle. Pay close attention to the signs posted and believe them. If a sign prohibits trailers, don’t use that road. There may be a hazard such as rocks, low trees, or washed-out sections of the road ahead that only a four-wheel drive vehicle can handle safely.

Traveling on a Holiday

Proper planning can help reduce much of the holiday traffic congestion. Many campsites accept reservations. Since roads leading to many popular attractions will be crowded, you may want to plan on a different route. If you haven’t made reservations, it’s a good idea to stop early in the day to ensure you get a campsite, because private and public campgrounds fill up quickly. Get a good rest before traveling.

Fatigue

Driving is not as easy as it appears. Break up your driving time by taking a 15- to 30-minute rest every two-to-three hours. Get out of your vehicle and walk around. This will help to loosen tired muscles and rest tired eyes. Use this time to inspect your vehicle. It will also improve your alertness.

REMEMBER: Night driving can be especially hazardous since the body naturally wants to sleep at night. Most drivers are less alert at night, particularily after midnight. If you are sleepy, the only safe cure is to get off the road and get some sleep. If you don’t, you are risking your life and the lives of others.

Turning Patterns

Defensive driving requires all drivers to think ahead. This is even more important for RV drivers than for drivers of passenger vehicles. An RV driver must be continually aware of the traffic around the vehicle because directional changes are slower and the RV needs more space in traffic. Try to avoid roads during rush hour traffic. If you are driving in unfamiliar areas, ask someone (possibly one of your passengers) to help you with directions and always have a map of the area. If you are driving by yourself, always pull off the road at a safe place and stop the vehicle before looking at a map.

Be Prepared

Listen to the local radio stations where you are traveling. Be aware of traffic slow downs, collisions, or road construction, etc. If you are prepared and have a map, you will be able to take alternative routes.

Starting and Shifting

Always try to start and shift (for manual transmissions) smoothly to prevent wear and tear on the hitch and transmission systems.

Turning Patterns

Longer wheel bases make it necessary to change your turning patterns. You must turn wider at intersections or the rear wheel may roll over the curb. Go further into the intersection before starting the turn and adjust your lane position to increase the turning radius.

Curves in the highway can also be tricky. Stay to the center of the lane for right turns so the rear wheels will not go off the pavement. For a left turn or curve, stay to the right of the lane to prevent the back of the trailer from tracking into the oncoming lane of traffic.

RVs and some trailers have a high center of gravity, so turning corners and taking curves must be done at slower speeds to prevent swaying. Slow down before you enter the curve.

If you transport livestock, be careful because they can move around in a trailer. This shifts the center of gravity and makes a rollover more likely. With less than a full load of livestock, use barriers to keep the livestock together. Even then, be very careful in curves. Livestock will also lean in the curve and this could cause a rollover if you are driving too fast.

Winds

If you are driving in areas with strong winds, take special care. Crosswinds are the greatest threat because they can push a large motor home or a vehicle and trailer combination into another lane if you are not prepared. This is especially true for travel trailers. In most cases, going slower is the best defense against strong winds. If you are towing a trailer, you should gradually apply the trailer brakes to help control a swaying trailer. Headwinds require a heavier throttle to maintain usual speeds. You may be able to control an RV in strong winds, but the safest thing to do would be to pull over and wait it out. If you anticipate driving in very windy areas, call and obtain local weather and road conditions. Good sources of weather information are local airports, highway patrol, state police, or ranger stations. Often, you will see signs along the highway which show radio frequencies for weather information.

Snow

Always carry drive wheel and trailer wheel chains when you travel in snow country. Know how to put them on. Chains are needed for both the tow vehicle and for one axle of the trailer. If you have a motor home with dual-rear wheels, you will need chains for one tire on each side.

Ice

If you are towing a trailer on icy roads, go slowly, especially downhill. Use the lower gears. You may be able to gain additional traction for the tow vehicle by moderately releasing the tension of the load equalizing hitch. Always readjust the hitch after the icy road condition has passed because vehicle stability may be affected during normal driving conditions.

Mountain Roads

Will your vehicle make it up the grade? Almost all grades, regardless of severity, will cause you to slow down. Any grade steeper than six percent is considered extreme and requires special attention. The steeper the grade or the longer the grade and the heavier the load, the more you will have to use lower gears to climb hills or mountains.

When going down steep hills, gravity will tend to speed you up. You must select an appropriate safe speed, use a low gear, and apply enough braking power to hold you back without letting the brakes get too hot. Use the braking effect of the engine (lower gears) as the principal way of controlling your speed to save your brakes so you will be able to slow or stop as required by road and traffic conditions. Slow the vehicle and shift the transmission to a low gear before starting down a grade.

REMEMBER: The use of brakes on a long and/or steep downgrade is only a supplement to the braking effect of the engine. Once the vehicle is in the proper low gear, the following is a proper braking technique:

  1. Apply the brakes just hard enough to feel a definite slowdown.
  2. When your speed has been reduced to approximately five mph below your “safe” speed, release the brakes. This brake application should last for about three seconds.
  3. When your speed has increased to your “safe” speed, repeat steps 1 and 2.

Do not drive in the fast lanes on a multiple-lane grade. Stay in the far right lane while climbing a steep grade if your RV or trailer will not maintain the legal speed limit. It would be better to drop to a lower gear and slow down rather than pass slow trucks and tie up the faster lanes because you don’t have enough power.

Narrow Roads

Some two-lane roads have special “turn-out” areas. You may pull into these areas and allow vehicles behind you to pass. Some two-lane roads have a passing lane. Stay in the right lane so faster vehicles may pass you in the passing lane. When you drive a slow-moving vehicle on a two-lane highway or road where passing is unsafe, and five or more vehicles are following you, pull to the side of the road wherever you can safely do so to let the vehicles pass.

Try to stay to the right of the lane so the vehicles behind you can see ahead. Remember to pull off the road when it is safe and allow the faster vehicles to pass.

Escape Ramps

Escape ramps have been built on many steep mountain grades, and are used to stop runaway vehicles safely without injuring drivers and passengers. Escape ramps use a long bed of loose, soft material (pea gravel or sand) to slow a runaway vehicle, sometimes in combination with an upgrade.

Know where escape ramps are located on your route. Signs show drivers where ramps are located.

Road Signs

Pay attention to road signs that warn against travel by vehicles towing trailers. If you missed the sign that warned of a “Dead End” ahead, would you be able to turn your vehicle around? What was the weight limit for the bridge ahead? Did you notice the height clearance for the overpass? You may not notice these types of signs because you’ve never had to worry about them in your passenger vehicle. You will have to worry about them in your RV.

Freeway Driving

You will have slower acceleration when you enter a freeway, so you will need more space. Remember that freeway traffic has the right-of- way, so you must look for gaps large enough to accommodate your vehicle(s). You also need more space when passing other vehicles. Judging how much space you will need takes practice. If you don’t allow enough space and time to complete a pass, you may need to swerve quickly into another lane. This could result in a skidding, oversteering, swaying, or fishtailing trailer.

Following distances must also be increased because you cannot slow down and stop your vehicle quickly. When you want to exit a freeway, slow down sooner than you would for a smaller vehicle. Be aware that many off ramps have curves which continually tighten. You will need to stay to the outside of the curve so the rear wheels will not rub the curb or drop off the pavement.

By law (CVC §22406), vehicles towing trailers must stay in the right-hand traffic lane or as close as possible to the right edge or curb. If you drive on a divided highway with four or more traffic lanes in the same direction or where a specific lane or lanes have not been designated, you can drive in the lane just to the left of the right-hand traffic lane. When overtaking or passing another vehicle going in the same direction, you must use either: (1) the designated lane, (2) the lane just to the left of the right-hand lane, or (3) the right-hand traffic lane when use of that lane is permitted.

Dirt or unpaved Roads

Many times the only road into the campground is a dirt or gravel road. Consult a campground directory to see if a certain road is suitable for your vehicle. Pay close attention to the signs posted and believe them. If a sign prohibits trailers, don’t use that road. There may be a hazard such as rocks, low trees, or washed-out sections of the road ahead that only a four-wheel drive vehicle can handle safely.

Traveling on a Holiday

Proper planning can help reduce much of the holiday traffic congestion. Many campsites accept reservations. Since roads leading to many popular attractions will be crowded, you may want to plan on a different route. If you haven’t made reservations, it’s a good idea to stop early in the day to ensure you get a campsite, because private and public campgrounds fill up quickly. Get a good rest before traveling.

Fatigue

Driving is not as easy as it appears. Break up your driving time by taking a 15- to 30-minute rest every two-to-three hours. Get out of your vehicle and walk around. This will help to loosen tired muscles and rest tired eyes. Use this time to inspect your vehicle. It will also improve your alertness.

REMEMBER: Night driving can be especially hazardous since the body naturally wants to sleep at night. Most drivers are less alert at night, particularily after midnight. If you are sleepy, the only safe cure is to get off the road and get some sleep. If you don’t, you are risking your life and the lives of others.